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  1. #1

    Default T5 swap question: drive shaft

    Hey guys! Couple of years ago I posted a question about sourcing parts from the us to europe for a t5 swap in to my 79 coupe. Well, the list is getting shorter. I got everything but the pedal assembly, the crossmember and a couple smaller parts. Now I have one more question , hope some of you can help!

    When swapping from c4 to t5, will the driveshaft need to be shortened / replaced or is it a direct fit?








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  2. #2
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    The drive shaft should be a direct fit. The splines are the same and the overall length should be the same as a T5. That, of course assumes that the drive shaft is the overall length of @ 45.5" center of U joint to center of U joint. If your driveshaft is a different length then fitment may be more of an issue. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  3. #3

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    Thank you for the input! That is one less thing to worry about. Now on to sourcing a pedal assembly!


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  4. #4

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    If I remember correctly I had to shorten the original driveshaft when I swapped from the original C4 to T5 in my sons 80 cobra several years ago. It was not that big of a deal to shorten it at a driveline place, but will cost a few dollars.

    I would double check the length you currently have to see if its 45.5" as suggested.

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by at_the_junkyard View Post
    If I remember correctly I had to shorten the original driveshaft when I swapped from the original C4 to T5 in my sons 80 cobra several years ago. It was not that big of a deal to shorten it at a driveline place, but will cost a few dollars.

    I would double check the length you currently have to see if its 45.5" as suggested.
    Thanks! I will measure the length this weekend. Would save some bucks if it fits.

    One more question. I found a 79-82 pedal assembly for about 300 dollars less what it would cost me to get an 83+ from ebay in the states. I understand the assembly with the quadrant makes for a smoother clutch pedal. Any other downsides? Or ways to upgrade the earlier pedal assembly?

    I appreciate all the help guys !!

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  6. #6

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    When I did this exact upgrade on my 80 I used a pedal assembly pulled from a junkyard car and upgraded the plastic stock quadrant to an aluminum aftermarket. It is in fact much smoother/easier action than the 79-80 style which was more a direct pull on the cable etc. That is what I would recommend if your budget allows. It also depends if you are using a heavier effort clutch plate...that will make a difference too.

    I would also recommend modifying to use a firewall adjuster as well. It is very nice feature to be able to fine adjust the clutch without crawling under the car.

  7. #7
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lucashaz79 View Post
    Thanks! I will measure the length this weekend. Would save some bucks if it fits.

    One more question. I found a 79-82 pedal assembly for about 300 dollars less what it would cost me to get an 83+ from ebay in the states. I understand the assembly with the quadrant makes for a smoother clutch pedal. Any other downsides? Or ways to upgrade the earlier pedal assembly?

    I appreciate all the help guys !!

    Sent from my moto g31(w) using Tapatalk
    The original 83+ was self adjusting so that helped as the clutch wore over time to keep the pedal travel length basically the same. The quadrant does provide mechanical leverage so that lessens the weight of the clutch pedal so that is a benefit. The 79-82 are direct pull and use an adjustable cable that can be problematic at times. Not the end of the world, but can need adjustment on a semi-regular basis depending on type of clutch and miles driven.

    The 83+ used with the aftermarket quadrant, quality cable and firewall adjuster do make a big difference IMHO. The other option is the aftermarket hydraulic conversion set ups. Definitely more expensive, but a lighter clutch pedal than even the quadrant style in most cases. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  8. #8
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
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    Take a look at it! Some earlier models DID get the quadrant style clutch early. My '81 Granada came with one which shocked the heck out of me...
    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads... Currently building a 347 because, why not?

    "Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"

  9. #9

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    Thanks for all the input guys! Really helps.

    For now i am going for the 1979 style pedal assembly just to save some bucks. Found a broken reverse idler gear and slider in the t5 I bought so money is going that direction!

    Whenever I come across an affordable newer style assembly I will go for it. Shipping one from the states to europe is no small investment hahaha. 300 for the assembly. 100 bucks for shipping and another 100 for duty and taxes. I envy you guys over there .

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