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  1. #1

    Default Fixing my A/C and wanted some input

    Im getting ready to replace the original compressor, lines and condenser on my mustang since im tired of having stuff on it that doesnt work and wanted to hear some input on how im going about this.
    Since a full conversion to a sanden compressor setup isnt available anymore and would have to make everything from scratch to make one and not really interested in going that way unless i HAD to, i picked up nos hr980 and have to make new ends on my hoses for the screw on fittings it has instead of the normal springlocks. Not a big deal but im going to reuse my clutch since it wasnt the problem with the original compressor.

    Now my real input needed would be on the refrigerant. Im looking at 2 options, r12(which i have a few cans of somehow) or just using r290 instead. R290 is refrigerant grade propane(not the same stuff in your grill tank) and widely used and should be fully compatible with everything in the oe system.
    The main reason im interested r290 over r12 is accessibility and price since i was planning to also redo my tbirds a/c with the same. Both have the tecumseh hr980 compressors but my tbird had a conversion to some fridge12 stuff before i got it.

    So, thoughts?

  2. #2
    FEP Power Member
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    R12 is fairly easy to find on apps like Next door, Craig's list and eBay. I picked up 25 cans recently.
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  3. #3

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    I mean, I did a full r134a conversion on my LTS and didn't have any issues with the OE parts. Had to buy new hoses, a drier, and a condenser. but reused the existing compressor and the evap core.

    r134a isn't expensive.
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  4. #4
    FEP Super Member Blainer's Avatar
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    R134a would be the route I'd take IMO.

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  5. #5

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    I can still find r12 in both cans and tanks around me for "okay" money but in 5 or 10 years that may not be the case. I will always be able to find r290 because they use it everywhere and i dont see that changing in my lifetime. R290 is compatible with the mineral oil the OE system uses, unlike r134a or the PAG oil that needs.
    Ive seen many posts warning about the hr980 using r134a, and some saying they had no issues either, so im going to avoid using that unless i convert the whole thing to a sanden setup, because i dont see many of these hr980s for sale anymore im not even going to risk that. I would mention the oil difference but everything is new and only the evaporator would need to be flushed(which it needs anyway).

  6. #6
    FEP Senior Member
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    I've never worked with R290, but I agree with Chuck and Blainer on R134a. I haven't done the research that you have on the HR980 and R134a, but I can tell you that there are plenty of people that just throw stuff at an A/C system and don't follow proper procedures and end up with subpar results.

    I would go with R12 or R134a. As for your concern about R12 availability, I can understand that, but R12 has been out of production in the US for almost 30 years and is still available for purchase if you know where to look. I think the number of cars running R12 is extremely low so the demand is low which is why it is still available for not outrageous prices.
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  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by KevinK View Post
    R12 is fairly easy to find on apps like Next door, Craig's list and eBay. I picked up 25 cans recently.
    Fyi, as of a year or two ago, Ebay no longer allows the selling of R12 refrigerant. The ads get pulled down as soon as it is posted for sale. They do allow some alternative products for sale, such as "Artic Air for R12" (or equal), but that is not R12 refrigerant.
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  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by 85GTGuy View Post
    Fyi, as of a year or two ago, Ebay no longer allows the selling of R12 refrigerant. The ads get pulled down as soon as it is posted for sale. They do allow some alternative products for sale, such as "Artic Air for R12" (or equal), but that is not R12 refrigerant.
    Thats how i got one of my r12 cans, they mislabelled their auction and it slipped past ebays watchdogs. Never going to get lucky like that again.
    Craigslist or marketplace if you use facebook is about the only other way without a cert.
    I want to avoid those r12 substitutes since most of them are just butane and c02 of some varying ratio and no good for this compressor from what ive read.

  9. #9
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    R134A was scheduled to be phased out immediately after it was released for common use. Not sure where the date is today. I'm sure its not going to be pushed out with today's earth friendly/climate change concerns.

    I just saw 25 cans of R12 listed today and a 30 lb tank last week.
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  10. #10

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    Already running into walls with this, ugh. The beadlock screw on connectors i picked up are the correct port sizes(#8 and #10) but the threaded parts of them are way to large for these compressor connectors. They were supposed to be for ford tecumseh compressor but im guessing its for the older upright ones. Guess its back to the drawing board for that.
    Edit: i just remembered i had a dealer ford a/c system test kit in one of my garages for testing all the components in a system individually and probably should see if it has the sizes for this compressor so i can pick them up.

    Quote Originally Posted by KevinK View Post
    R134A was scheduled to be phased out immediately after it was released for common use. Not sure where the date is today. I'm sure its not going to be pushed out with today's earth friendly/climate change concerns.

    I just saw 25 cans of R12 listed today and a 30 lb tank last week.
    Looking around me im seeing r12 going for 50 bucks+/- a can, tanks with like 10 oz left in them for almost $200.
    My entire r290 kit with a gauge was only like 70 bucks.
    Last edited by 1984GTTurboVert; 05-04-2024 at 05:21 PM.

  11. #11
    FEP Power Member
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    I picked up 14 cans for $200 in eastern PA a few months ago. Keep your eyes open for them.
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    14 Mustang CS/GT, 15 F150 FTX Tuscany, 16 F250 Crewcab, 67 Tbird 47K miles

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