• Published on 06-26-2013 03:33 PM
    1. Body

    Ford manual for fixing those infamous T-top leaks on Fox Mustangs and Capris. Thanks to member TL86LX for sending these images to FEP for use on this website.
    Click here to see the complete repair ...
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    Published on 06-26-2013 03:27 PM
    1. Body

    Scans showing the various bits and parts of Capris from 1979-1986. Submitted by FEP member caprisvo. List includes both body and mechanical parts.
    Click here to see the parts list.
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    Published on 06-26-2013 03:18 PM

    How to move the battery to the rear of your 79-86 Mustang or Capri safely, and within NHRA specifications.

    Article by Mike Croke.

    Due to the fact that most of those who are performing a battery relocation are likely to be drag racers, the following article shows how to do an NHRA legal install. Road racing sanctioning bodies are likely to have slightly different requirements, so consult the rule book of your particular sanctioning body to be sure of your legality.

    From the NHRA rulebook:

    "8.1 BATTERIES

    All batteries must be securely mounted and may not be relocated into the driver or passenger compartments. Rear firewall of .024-inch (.6 mm) steel or .032-inch (.8 mm) aluminum (including package tray) required when battery is re-located in trunk. In lieu of rear firewall, battery may be located in a sealed .024-inch (.6 mm) or .032-inch (.8 mm) aluminum, or FIA accepted poly box. If sealed box is used in lieu of rear firewall, box may not be used to secure battery, and must be vented outside of body. Strapping tape prohibited. A maximum of two automobile batteries, or 150 pounds (68 kg) combined maximum weight (unless otherwise specified in Class Requirements) is permitted. Metal battery hold-down straps mandatory. Hold-down bolts must be minimum 3/8-inch (9.53 mm) if battery is relocated from stock and other than stock hold-downs are used ("J" hooks prohibited or must have open end welded shut.).



    Mandatory when battery is relocated, or as outlined in Class Requirements. An electrical power cutoff switch (one only) must be installed on the rearmost part of each vehicle and be easily accessible from outside the car body. This cutoff switch must be connected to the positive side of the electrical system and must stop all ...

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    Published on 06-26-2013 02:47 PM
    1. Body

    How to restore/refurbish the side molding on your 79-84 Mustang or Capri

    *Note: Although the car used in this tech article is a Mustang, Mustangs and Capris shared the same 'soft' moldings from 1979-1984. Because of these shared parts, this article does apply to 1979-1984 Mercury Capris. Also note that 1984 Mustang GT350s and Mustang SVOs did not have this type of side molding, therefore, this article does not apply to those vehicles.

    Restoration performed and documented by Peter "Hissing Cobra" Slaney.

    This article was put together after numerous requests. I hope it helps everyone here in regards to restoring their bodyside molding (which we know is not reproduced for the '79-'84 Mustangs & Capris.) This is meant for the rubber molding only and will not work on the plastic corner pieces of the '85-'93 models (though it may work on their rubber moldings.) NOTE: I have received a few responses from owners of the '85-up cars, stating that their moldings have shrunk from this method. I have not received any responses from the '79-'84 crowd reiterating this. For you '85-up owners, proceed with caution!

    This article is meant to be used as a guide to help you through the restoration process and is by no means the "be all" and "end all" of rubber molding restoration techniques. This method worked for my molding and produced factory fresh results.

    This article can be copied for personal use only and cannot be sold, nor published without first contacting myself (Peter J. Slaney) or Skye (owner of and getting written consent. I am not (nor is responsible and hold no liability if your molding is damaged during your restoration. Remember, careful execution and perseverence is the key to a good job. Good luck!


    Assemble all of the tools that you will need to remove the molding and its metal backed adhesive strips. These will include the following:

    1 Pair of Vise Grips (or Pliars)
    1 small chisel bladed putty knife (1" wide)
    1 small flathead screwdriver
    1 can of lacquer thinner
    1 torch (with can of Mapp Gas)
    1 vise
    4 cotton cloths


    Take the 1" chisel bladed putty knife and begin to pry the molding away from the body of the car. When enough has been pried away, gently pull the molding away from the car until it's no longer attached. HINT: A little heat from the torch (using Mapp gas) will aid the removal by softening the glue. Be very careful!


    Once the molding is removed, it will be bent and twisted. This is normal and is the direct result of the metal backed adhesive strips that are on the back. Once they bend, they will not be able to be straightened and must be removed. Once removed, the rubber will go back to it's natural state of flatness. Here's a couple of pic's of the bent rubber molding.


    Place two of the cotton cloths on the vise (one on each side, effectively covering the teeth) and insert the molding into the vise, tightening it enough to hold the molding without moving. The cloths will prevent the vise from damaging the molding.


    Take the Torch (equipped with MAPP Gas) and gently wave it over the edge of the molding to soften the glue. Care must be taken so that the rubber does not melt or catch on fire. After a moment of heat, insert the chisel bladed putty knife or the small flathead screwdriver behind the metal backed adhesive and pry up enough so that you can grab it with the Vise Grips or pliars. Attach either and begin to pull (applying heat with the torch as you go.) If you're good and the molding adhesive is not brittle, you'll be able to pull each strip in one shot.

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    by Published on 06-26-2013 10:18 AM

    See that big search box up there? We're using this to allow people to search our Library which has tons of factory literature, period magazine articles and more. That section was damaged in the move, but is now restored and should be fully functional.

    To go directly to the section and browse, click here.
    by Published on 06-25-2013 04:54 PM

    Yes, we are back online. Obviously, we have a lot of work still to be done, but things seem to be functional enough to open up the message board and get our community congregating once again. You will likely see things shifting about for quite some time, a few links may change here and there, features may come and go... We really aren't sure exactly what's in store for the near future. But, here we are.

    Thanks for waiting, and never mind the default content we need to shake outta here.

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